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Huey V77, Image # 3720822 Nov 16 07:53

Huey V77, Image # 3720722 Nov 16 07:53

Silcspan is working very good, 3 coats of nitrate and some butyrate, than color.
rayl, Comment for image # 3716719 Nov 16 10:57
Plain old blue "Lo Stick" painters tape from Menards, etc. works fine. Just be sure to make sure the tape edges are burnished down to prevent any bleeding (good advice for ANY tape. DAMHIKT).
Huey V77, Comment for image # 3716719 Nov 16 10:44
Just a pilot, maybe an instrument panel. Can anyone recommend tape to use for painting. I'm planning on painting it like my Stinson. I have to trim it in forest green over Tampico green. Not sure how to do the "N" number yet.
Skyediamonds1985, Comment for image # 3716718 Nov 16 13:23
Beautiful model Huey. Looks as though its almost the real thing. Are you detailing the interior?
Huey V77, Comment for image # 3711818 Nov 16 06:19
Thanks for checking Ray. I found the factory drawing. Will figure out how to reproduce it.
rayl, Comment for image # 3711817 Nov 16 14:38
Huey: I tried about a half dozen sources, from locally to Rockford, IL and up to the Twin Cities, but with no luck at all. Actually a paint stripper followed by some metal polishing and paint will probably bring it back to "as new" condition.
Huey V77, Image # 3716717 Nov 16 07:51

Huey V77, Image # 3716617 Nov 16 07:51

Huey V77, Image # 3716517 Nov 16 07:50

Huey V77, Image # 3716417 Nov 16 07:50

Huey V77, Image # 3716317 Nov 16 07:50

rayl, Comment for image # 3711810 Nov 16 07:51
I will check out a couple of my sources but no promises.
Huey V77, Comment for image # 3711809 Nov 16 11:15
Full size, I'm restoring a 1940 Aeronca 50F Chief. Have one control wheel, the other needs this cover/logo. These are for a later model, correct ones are not available.
rayl, Comment for image # 3711809 Nov 16 10:20
Full size or miniature?
Huey V77, Image # 3711809 Nov 16 09:01

Anyone know how I can reproduce the logo?
Huey V77, Comment for image # 3708706 Nov 16 11:09
One side is a wee bit fuzzier. Found out with the first coat of nitrate. We'll see how it works with a few coats of butyrate to fill in.
Skyediamonds1985, Comment for image # 3708705 Nov 16 17:39
After applying the tissue -either side, but as the gentlemen said, shiny up or course side down- after your first coat of dope over the surface, lightly sand. The primary reason behind the sanding because the tissue naturally has fibers. These tiny fibers will tend to stick out after the first, and subsequent coats of dope. This sticking out of small fibers, or fuzz, is called "nap." Be sure that the coat of dope is thoroughly dried.... really dried before sanding. By lightly sanding, you're removing this nap from the surface. After each sanding, and before adding the next coat of dope, be sure to gently (and thoroughly) remove the left over fuzz or filings on the surface with a tack cloth. The second coat should also be followed by light sanding to help remove still smaller fuzz and so on. After about the fourth coat, you should be good for priming. But this is a subjective area for you to determine. Grain of the silkspan should go span wise from root to tip. Hope this helps.
Don C, Comment for image # 3708705 Nov 16 14:46
Just went to the shop and tested it. Still can't tell. Therefor,not going to worry. Like DD said - after finishing you can't tell. Now sandpaper is another matter.
Don C, Comment for image # 3708705 Nov 16 10:21
I never knew that either. I first used it in the 50's and didn't know that either. I never could tell any difference though. There is a grain also, which can affect shrinking.
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