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| poppy, Comment for image # 15330 | 07 Dec 09 12:56 |
| Quiet please. Master at work. |
| David Duckett, Image # 15330 | 06 Dec 09 14:05 |
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| David Duckett, Image # 15329 | 06 Dec 09 14:04 |
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| David Duckett, Image # 15328 | 06 Dec 09 14:03 |
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| David Duckett, Image # 15327 | 06 Dec 09 14:03 |
Sitting on its own three wheels. The main gear is made per plan except I had to notch two dowels to accept my toothpick axle. It worked. |
| David Duckett, Image # 15301 | 04 Dec 09 19:15 |
This wheel won't be used, just checking the fit. |
| David Duckett, Image # 15300 | 04 Dec 09 19:13 |
The yoke is 1/16" kit wood with a 1/20" balsa center. The plans say to use a piece of plastic for the center, a "yolk sandwich". Their quote. The strut is a dowel inside a plastic tube sitting in a balsa box with masking tape around one end. The circular pieces on the side are 1/4" plastic tube filled with white filler and masking tape around it. The braces are made of 1/64" plywood. |
| jimbothehotdog, Comment for image # 15289 | 04 Dec 09 11:19 |
| ... hmmm maybe excess is not quite the right word. I think I meant will it cause more shrinkage than using the dry tissue with dope method and then water misting... yeah... that sounds better :o) |
| David Duckett, Comment for image # 15289 | 04 Dec 09 10:50 |
| Both dope and silkspan shrink as they dry and that will definitely cause tension. I know that it will warp a light wing and will bend 1/16" stringers and that's the main reason I started using 3/32" stringers. Since I don't build light, excess is never a problem. Perhaps those who build light can best define excess in this case. |
| jimbothehotdog, Comment for image # 15289 | 03 Dec 09 21:28 |
| Nice demo David... thank you! I kinda figured the concept was simple but being a beginner I just don't know the details. Now, will this method cause excess tension on a light framed model? |
| BillParker, Comment for image # 15280 | 03 Dec 09 20:08 |
| Dave are you still able to work outdoors when it's like 6 thousand degrees out there? Ah... but it a dry heat, eh? |
| David Duckett, Image # 15291 | 03 Dec 09 19:14 |
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| David Duckett, Comment for image # 15280 | 03 Dec 09 18:46 |
| them... |
| David Duckett, Image # 15289 | 03 Dec 09 18:45 |
The wing and tail feathers are glued in place. The area in front of and behind the wing and the top center section still need to be covered. |
| David Duckett, Image # 15288 | 03 Dec 09 18:42 |
The last step is to apply a coat of clear dope to the entire thing and it's ready to use. |
| David Duckett, Image # 15287 | 03 Dec 09 18:41 |
I put a light coat of glue around all edges to make sure all the silkspan is firmly attached. |
| David Duckett, Image # 15286 | 03 Dec 09 18:37 |
When completely dry, the silkspan will be stiff and can easily be trimmed away with a razor knife or by sanding. |
| David Duckett, Image # 15285 | 03 Dec 09 18:36 |
"Relief cuts" while the dope is wet will allow the silkspan to wrap around the edge. |
| David Duckett, Image # 15284 | 03 Dec 09 18:34 |
Paint on another coat of clear dope around the edges to make sure it's all sealed and then allow to dry thorouhly. |
| David Duckett, Image # 15283 | 03 Dec 09 18:32 |
Lay the wet/moist silkspan on the frame and use your fingers to smooth it out. Start by pulling from root to tip and then on the other two sides. |
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