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| mark eggebeen, Image # 43796 | 28 Feb 22 16:22 |
taking inventory |
| mark eggebeen, Comment for image # 43785 | 22 Feb 22 15:40 |
| All the ribs cut and trimmed..... now some of this stuff the big assembly starts. |
| mark eggebeen, Image # 43785 | 22 Feb 22 15:38 |
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| edtherenderman, Comment for image # 43782 | 22 Feb 22 11:19 |
| LOL! It's my glue of choice for building! Of course, I always have acetone or fingernail polish remover handy for when I stick my fingers together! I use yellow wood glue (Tightbond) for infilling because it sands easier then CA and drys pretty fast. |
| mark eggebeen, Comment for image # 43782 | 22 Feb 22 10:45 |
| How many of you use a lot of thin C A glue? |
| edtherenderman, Comment for image # 43782 | 17 Feb 22 09:59 |
| This is the primer I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R244LN4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details but I think you can use any automobile primer as long as it states that it is high build filler and sandable. |
| mark eggebeen, Comment for image # 43782 | 16 Feb 22 22:18 |
| tell me about sanding primer (brands) |
| edtherenderman, Comment for image # 43782 | 16 Feb 22 16:28 |
| Note to toot my own horn, but check out this http://www.virtualaerodrome.com/image_detail.html?p_aircraft_id=708&p_user_id=1412&p_image_id=41491. That's TopFlight medium silkspan, EZ-Dope, spray can automobile sanding primer and regular acrylic model paints. |
| mark eggebeen, Comment for image # 43782 | 16 Feb 22 16:27 |
| I have looked At that part of guillows sheets…That,s a lot of small pieces!! |
| edtherenderman, Comment for image # 43782 | 16 Feb 22 16:22 |
| You will have overlap because you will not be able to cover something as big and curvy as your fuse without doing multiple pieces. I don't know about this model, but Guillows usually puts an instruction sheet in that shows the best way to cover the model. It's usually small pieces that cover one or two formers at a time. The good thing is, once you dope the model, you can take some fine sandpaper and sand down the overlaps so they don't show much. Just be careful not to sand through the silkspan. I then use sanding primer over the tissue to fill in any seams that may still be there. It won't be "metal surface" smooth, but you can get it pretty close. |
| mark eggebeen, Comment for image # 43782 | 16 Feb 22 16:16 |
| Should I worry about overlap when putting the silkspan on.? |
| edtherenderman, Comment for image # 43782 | 16 Feb 22 16:15 |
| Personally, I find this part one of the hardest in Balsa building. I want perfection and it is tough to do. I've pulled a lot of tissue off a model because it didn't stick right or was too wrinkled. But when you get the hang of it, it makes a great finish! It just takes some practice and patience. |
| edtherenderman, Comment for image # 43782 | 16 Feb 22 16:13 |
| When I put the silkspan on, I get it damp, put it on the model and stretch it as much as possible, then with a medium brush, apply the 1:1 ez-dope only where the tissue touches wood. Don't put dope on the open areas yet. Once the piece you are working on is completely covered, I go back and use the 1:2 thinned dope over the entire piece, drying each layer with a hairdryer. It will take several layers, and each will wrinkle the tissue less each time. You will know when you are done when the ez-dope isn't soaking into the tissue anymore and you have a nice dull sheen. |
| edtherenderman, Comment for image # 43782 | 16 Feb 22 16:09 |
| Yes! If you have any carved wood, fillets, etc on the model that you can do before putting the silk span on, do those and fill/sand as needed. Then apply the silkspan over those areas to give a consistent surface. Fillets that you apply after you put the model together can be covered separately and doped. |
| mark eggebeen, Comment for image # 43782 | 16 Feb 22 16:03 |
| Do you also use silkspan after some of the filling is done. I h saw this would make the finish smoother… |
| edtherenderman, Comment for image # 43782 | 16 Feb 22 15:58 |
| EZ-Dope, I get at amazon.com 250ML bottle goes a long way! I thin mine about 1:1 with water when applying the tissue, and 1:2 (dope:water) when using it to shrink and seal the tissue. |
| mark eggebeen, Comment for image # 43782 | 16 Feb 22 15:47 |
| Which hobby shop has the most stuff in one place. |
| mark eggebeen, Comment for image # 43782 | 16 Feb 22 15:42 |
| What size bottle of EZ dope .? |
| edtherenderman, Comment for image # 43782 | 16 Feb 22 15:37 |
| Love silkspan! It's thicker so you can "stretch" it more then tissue. I like to put my on damp. I use a wet paper flat on a plate, lay the silkspan on the towel until it is damp, then put it on the plane. I use EZ-Dope to attach it to the frame. Others like Butyrate dope, which I used for years. It's pretty strong smelling though, so I switched to the EZ-Dope which is like thinned white glue, but faster drying. I use a hair blow dryer to hasten the drying time.
Before putting anything on this nice frame, I'd build a couple of test frames with stringers to get a feel for how the tissue/dope works together. |
| mark eggebeen, Comment for image # 43782 | 16 Feb 22 15:12 |
| Explain |
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